A remote peninsula in the west of Scotland, with overwhelming nature and a wild mountain backdrop. Right in the middle: the small village of Applecross. The drive there is one of the most impressive experiences of a trip to Scotland.
Lonely lochs, wind-swept bays with turquoise sea, steeply rising mountains – Applecross is one of the wildest places in the Highlands.
The village lends its name to the whole wild peninsula on maps – although the peninsula is actually called “A’ Chomraich”, “the sanctuary”. Only around 600 people live in this area.
But sleepy as Applecross may seem, it has a lot to offer visitors: there’s the excellent Applecross Inn, for example, which serves up every local fish species deliciously. Anyone who prefers coffee and cake in a special atmosphere can enjoy it at the Flower Tunnel Cafe, right on the campsite. Hikes can be undertaken from the small village just as easily as kayak trips.
Tip: View to the islands
Drive a little way up the road heading north and take in the view across the Sound of Raasay towards Raasay and Skye. A magnificent backdrop, especially when the island is lightly wrapped in mist and the sun casts its beams across it.
Good to know: No apple trees in Applecross
Applecross has nothing to do with a crucified apple. Rather, it’s a corruption of the Gaelic “Aber Crossain” or the Pictish “Aporcrossan”, translated: “mouth of the river Crossan”. Crossan, in turn, is said to mean little cross.
A charming story is that even clergymen in the 18th century weren’t sure about the name, and so put about the tale that it came from a local who had planted apple trees in such a way that they formed the shape of a cross. This story, however, is rather unlikely.
What is certain, however, is that the village is very old. The first traces of settlement date back some 8,000 years. And in the 7th century AD, Saint Maelrubha founded a settlement here to advance the Christianisation of the Picts.
Personal note: All weathers in one drive
Wind, sun, downpours – we often had all of it at once on our tour around the peninsula. We almost turned back after the first few kilometres, as the road from the north already seemed very tough. After all, in places it drops away steeply down to the sea right next to the road. But then the weather improved a little and we were rewarded with one of the most beautiful landscapes and experiences of our whole trip to Scotland.
Getting there:
First, a small warning: getting to Applecross isn’t exactly easy from either direction. It requires your full concentration. From the north, the route crosses one of the steepest and most difficult passes, the Bealach na Bà. A bus, motorhome or caravan has no business on this road. The road north of Applecross is winding, narrow and hard to see ahead on.
But: it’s entirely manageable for a normal car – for motorbikes it’s apparently even fun (so I’ve heard). The scenery and the experience are more than worth the effort either way.
From the south – i.e. coming from Kyle of Lochalsh – follow the A890 to Strathcarron. Watch out there: the road reaches a T-junction. The A890 continues to the right. Take the A896 here instead, towards Lochcarron. Past the head of Loch Kishorn, then a turning to the left appears signposted for Applecross; a few hundred metres later there’s a fork – keep right. This puts you on the road over the Bealach na Bà, the Cattle Pass. It ends right in Applecross.
From the north – i.e. from Ullapool or Dingwall, for example – follow the A832 until the A896 branches off towards Torridon and Shieldaig. Applecross is already signposted here too. Follow this road until just past Shieldaig. Then comes a turning where Lochcarron is signposted twice in both directions first. Only after that comes the sign for Kenmore, Cuaig and Applecross. Turn right here. From this point the road turns wild, with big ups and downs.