A row of white houses along the shore of Loch Broom – Ullapool has all the romantic charm of a fishing harbour, but offers plenty more besides. It’s the last sizeable settlement before you head into the solitude of the North Highlands, and it’s also the ferry port for the crossing to Stornoway on the Outer Hebrides.
Ullapool’s appeal comes mainly from its setting, right in the middle of one of Scotland’s most beautiful natural landscapes. Visitors can take boat trips out across Loch Broom and as far as the so-called “Summer Isles”. You can also (learn to) fly-fish. There’s also a nine-hole golf course near Ullapool.
Ullapool is an especially good base for hillwalkers. You can, for example, climb the nearly 1,400-metre An Teallach (pronounced roughly “an chellach”), with its two summits, or simply walk around it. A detailed list of walks in the area can be found here.
Tip: visit Fowler’s Clock in Ullapool
In Ullapool, be sure to take a look at the famous clock, erected in 1899 by Sir John Fowler of Braemore in memory of his four sons and grandsons who had died. It’s beautifully ornamented.
Right up until 1995 the clock was still wound by hand; these days it runs on an electric movement. The Ullapool clock stands on Quay Street, the road leading north directly away from the harbour office. Just a few metres on, at the corner with Argyll Street, you’ll find it on the right.
Did you know: founding of the fishery society
Ullapool wasn’t a natural settlement that simply grew – it was founded in 1788 as a fishing harbour by the “British Society for Extending the Fisheries and Improving the Sea Coasts of This Kingdom of Great Britain”, the British Fisheries Society for short. Right into the 20th century, herring and mackerel were the main catch here.
The herring stocks naturally declined over time, leading to several fishing bans during the 20th century. These days, around a dozen larger boats still call Ullapool their home port, though the fishermen have largely turned to crab fishing instead.
Personal note: the Highlands in pure form
My travels have taken me to Ullapool twice. Although the town itself won’t blow you away, the surrounding landscape certainly will. From here, I once set out on a three-day hike to Poolewe, which was surely one of the most beautiful walks of my life (and one of the most exciting).
Getting there:
From Inverness (southeast), take the A9 first, then turn off at the Tore roundabout onto the A835, which runs straight to Ullapool.
From Durness (north), follow the A838 to Rhiconich, then continue on the A894 towards Scourie (Ullapool is already signposted there too). Later, at the T-junction by Loch Assynt, turn left onto the A837, and finally, just before Ledmore, turn right onto the A835 and into Ullapool.