Castle of Mey, on Scotland’s rugged north coast, was the Queen Mother’s summer residence. A visit to the castle offers a glimpse into the life of this charming elderly lady – the former Queen of Great Britain.
Here of all places in northern Scotland, where the North Sea and the Atlantic roar as they battle for supremacy… here of all places, where a harsh wind blows and rain lashes the flat coastline… here of all places, a petite old lady chose to make her home. Castle of Mey was the home of Queen Elizabeth of England – better known as the Queen Mother, mother of the late Queen Elizabeth II – for 50 years.
Although she died over ten years ago, Mey Castle still exudes the living spirit of the Queen Mother. Hardly anything in the rooms has been changed since she was last here. And so the visit becomes a brief stop to see a small but sprightly lady who lived to the proud age of 101. A lady who had a strictly regimented daily routine, which she spiced up with endearing habits.
The castle can only be visited on a guided tour. Otherwise, it doesn’t make sense. Too much would be incomprehensible, and you’d miss out on the nicest anecdotes. When you enter the stairwell, you learn about the long walks she took on the nearby beach, see the plate of seashells that the Queen Mother collected along the way and arranged so beautifully, and climb the steep steps that were a daily challenge for the elderly lady – but which she mastered without assistance until the very end.
And then there’s her sense of humor, which is evident time and again throughout the rooms. For example, a kitschy Nessie stuffed animal sits enthroned on an expensive tapestry. It’s out of reach, two meters up. Two servants had placed it there as a joke. The Queen Mum, however, left it up there and from then on used it as an “icebreaker” when receiving guests in that room. By asking them if they liked it, she deliberately took visitors by surprise. Stories like these are what give Castle of Mey its charm.
As the tour begins, visitors are immersed not in a romantic world, but rather in the everyday life of an English aristocrat. By the time they leave the castle, they’ve gained insight into a part of her life and character. There’s no better way to keep the memory of a deceased figure alive.
Tip: The garden at the castle
Right next to the castle is a walled garden where, among other things, beautiful roses are grown. This is a pleasant place to stretch your legs before the tour.
Fact: History of the Castle
Although you wouldn’t guess it by looking at it, Mey Castle dates back to the 16th century and belonged to the Earl of Caithness at that time. In 1819, extensive renovations were carried out on the estate. When the last Earl of Caithness eventually died childless, he bequeathed the castle to a friend. When he died, his widow sold the house to a captain, who in turn sold it to Elizabeth in 1952.
Castle of Mey was, in fact, a residence that belonged to the Queen Mother herself. All other residences belonged to the royal family and, therefore, to the state.
Personal Note: A Surprise at the Dinner Table
In the dining room, the guide suddenly left us alone with an elderly man who was leaning on one of the chairs, as standing was clearly difficult for him. He then spoke at length about the meals that had taken place in that room. About the discreet signals Elizabeth used to let her conversation partner know it was time to change the subject. About little pranks, like when she hid behind a curtain…
Eventually, one visitor plucked up the courage to ask how the old man knew all of this. “I always sat right here!” he said, pointing to a chair at the table. He was one of Queen Mum’s staff members, who had also spent years of his life here.
Directions:
The Castle of Mey is located in northeastern Scotland in the county of Caithness, conveniently situated between Wick to the south and Thurso to the west. It’s best to include it in a coastal tour along the North Coast 500.
From Wick, take the A836 and follow it for about 30 kilometers. Then look for the brown signs marked “Castle & Gardens of Mey.” Finally, turn right and drive all the way to the large parking lot.
From Thurso, it’s about 22 kilometers along the A836. It’s best to follow the signs for Castletown and John o’ Groats. The Castle of Mey is also signposted here. After about 20 kilometers, turn right and drive into the parking lot.
