“Most Desolate Place of the Year 2010″—there are certainly more desirable awards that John o’ Groats would have preferred to win. But the town has changed since then.
When it rains – and that’s certainly not uncommon in Scotland – there are actually few places that seem more desolate. Lower John o’ Groats, by the sea, is mainly a large parking lot, with buildings clustered around it: a bar, a hotel, a brewery, and a whiskey distillery.
For this, it received the 2010 Carbuncle Award – an award for an ugly place. That spurred the residents into action: the vacant hotel was renovated and is up and running again. Rows of colorful houses were built, and the parking lot was repaved. A brewery and a distillery have found a new home here. And an ancient mill is being converted into a tourist attraction.
There have been setbacks, however: Moored in the small harbor is the “Pentland Venture,” which once operated the ferry service to the nearby Orkney Islands. As a passenger-only ferry, the John o’ Groats Ferry mostly carried tourists across, who would then take a bus tour of the Orkneys. But in 2024, the operator tried to sell the ferry. The service has been suspended ever since. Its future remains uncertain.
Above the pier stands an octagonal metal kiosk with all sorts of information posted on it. Behind it is a signpost pointing, among other places, to Land’s End. Land’s End is the geographic counterpart to John o’ Groats, located at the very southwestern tip of Great Britain; the two are separated by just under 1,400 kilometers.
However, John o’ Groats is by no means the northernmost point of the British mainland. That point lies a few kilometers further west, extends two kilometers farther north, and is called Dunnet Head. Yet the longest road connection in Great Britain runs precisely between Land’s End and John o’ Groats. The British also call this route “end to end.”
And it is precisely this interplay with Land’s End that explains the true significance of John o’ Groats. This is because bike tours or hikes that traverse Great Britain start and end at these two locations. The signpost is often used as a photo backdrop to prove that you’ve truly seen both ends.
As mentioned, a lot has happened since that memorable “award ceremony” in 2010. Precisely because so many visitors come here, interesting businesses have also set up shop. For example…
The 8 Doors Distillery
A brand-new building, for example, nestles to the south of the parking lot. This is the 8 Doors Distillery, which opened its doors here in September 2022 and has been distilling whiskey ever since. The first cask was filled on September 13, 2022. The founders are Kelly and Derek Campbell.
They receive expert guidance from Master Blender John Ramsay. Until 2009, he served as Master Blender for the Edrington Group, which produces whiskies such as Famous Grouse, Macallan, Cutty Sark, and Highland Park. The retiree has returned to 8 Doors Distillery to help with the Highland single malt that is being produced here.
As with many distilleries, there is also a community here called “The 874 Club.” 874 miles is the distance between Land’s End and John o’ Groats.
Of course, tours will be offered here in the future. In addition, a shop sells all kinds of nice souvenirs, and there’s also whisky to sample: the “Seven Sons” gives a taste of what the final product is meant to be like.
The John o’ Groats Brewery
The John o’ Groats Brewery calls itself the “last house” on the mainland. Whether that’s actually true is unclear. What is certain is that beer is brewed here: the ales “Golden Groat” and “Amber Groat,” as well as the stout “Deep Groat.”
The beers can be purchased in the shop or sampled in the tasting room. Visitors can also enjoy a short brewery tour.
Antiques at Turning Tides
The county of Caithness, where John o’ Groats is located, was once home to a famous glass manufacturer: Caithness Glass. Although this glass manufacturer is now based in Crieff, the antique dealer Turning Tides still displays a selection of vases and other items dating from the heyday of Caithness Glass. And, of course, there are plenty of other fascinating and valuable antiques and vintage pieces to be found here.
John o’ Groats also serves as a great starting point for hikes; one trail leads from here to Duncansby Head, where you can not only watch seabirds but also marvel at the striking rock spires.
Coming Soon: The John o’ Groats Mill
The large grain mill, located just outside John o’ Groats on the road heading west, has stood here since 1901. The Houston family worked here until 2001 – which is why some locals still refer to it as Houston Mill. Since 2016, a foundation has been managing the John o’ Groats Mill, and it is scheduled to open in the summer of 2025. Then visitors will be able to marvel at the old machinery.
Did You Know: The Name John o’ Groats
The place name dates back to a Dutchman named Jan de Groot. In 1496, King James IV of Scotland is said to have granted him the ferry rights to Orkney after the Norwegians were forced to cede the archipelago to Scotland. De Groot is said to have charged four pence and then given a coin as a ticket for the crossing, which subsequently became known as a “groat” in common parlance. Hence the name John o’ Groats.
One more thing stands out here: whether it’s a kiosk, a hotel, or a distillery – they all either have an octagonal floor plan or play on the number eight. There’s a reason for this: the operators of “The 8 Doors Distillery” take the name “Eight Doors” from Jan de Groot. Legend has it that the Dutchman had seven sons. The eight men were constantly arguing over who should sit at the head of the table. To end the dispute, Jan de Groot built a room with eight doors, containing a table with eight sides. That way, everyone had the “head” of the table.
Tip: Take a walk along the coast
A path runs along the coast. Here, visitors can relax a bit and let their gaze wander across the Pentland Firth toward the Orkneys. With a little luck, you might even spot orcas here – you can check a Facebook group, for example, to see if any are nearby.
Directions
With a GPS: Enter “KW1 4YR,” which will take you to the upper part of John o’ Groats. Then follow the signs to the “Pedestrian Ferry.”
Without a GPS:
From Inverness, take the A9 and then the A99 until you reach the northernmost town of John o’ Groats, where the Seaview Hotel will appear on your right. From there, follow the sign for the “Pedestrian Ferry.” Park in the parking lot.
From Thurso, first follow the A9 toward Wick, but while still in Thurso, look for signs for the A836, which leads to John o’ Groats and Castle Mey. When the Seaview Hotel comes into view, turn left.