A boat must pass eight gates at Banavie before it’s allowed into the Caledonian Canal. A tough test, especially for the skippers.
At the locks of Neptune’s Staircase, it’s all hands on deck. The boats have to be pulled by hand along a path beside the basins, and the engine may only be started again once you’re right at the top. And so the boat crews sweat, puff and haul their vessels through the gates on heavy ropes. Only then are they allowed a few minutes’ rest while the water rises.
Visitors, meanwhile, are delighted – they get to experience the whole thing without lifting a finger. So while standing on one of the closed lock gates, they can let their gaze wander to the impressive north face of Ben Nevis or over the picturesque Loch Linnhe.
For the boats, entering the Caledonian Canal here is only the start of a route that’s repeatedly broken up by further locks. One of the largest systems besides Neptune’s Staircase is the set of locks at Fort Augustus, at the start of Loch Ness. Altogether, boats have to climb a total of 29 steps on their way through Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness, before finally arriving in the North Sea via the Muirtown Locks at Inverness.
But the effort pays off. In the past, it saved merchant ships the long detour around the northern tip of Scotland with its notorious Cape Wrath. Today, on the other hand, it’s mainly holidaymakers who take the chance to journey through the scenery of the famous Great Glen aboard one of the floating hotels.
Know-how: about the locks
As befits a sea god, Neptune takes his time with his staircase. Over 450 metres, the eight locks overcome a height difference of 25 metres. Each basin is around 60 metres long.
Opening the gates used to be manual labour too, incidentally. The lock keepers had to open the heavy lock doors using large turning wheels. Since the 1960s, though, this has been done with a motor.
Tip: Neptune’s Staircase as a gateway to the Road to the Isles
The locks sit right on the A830, known as the Road to the Isles. It leads to Mallaig, from where the ferry to Skye departs. Along the way, the road passes attractions such as the Glenfinnan Monument and the Glenfinnan Viaduct (the “Harry Potter Bridge”). The road runs parallel to the Jacobite Steam Train (“Harry Potter” train), which incidentally also crosses right by the locks over the railway bridge.
So if you’re planning to drive the Road to the Isles, it’s well worth stopping here right at the start, before continuing west.
Personal note: dark clouds, bright sun
What strange weather: we had ominous blue-black clouds overhead during our visit. Yet the sun was shining too, creating a really odd light. It certainly made for a lovely atmosphere in the photos.
Getting there:
With a sat nav: “PH33 7PJ” takes you straight there.
Without a sat nav: From Fort William, first take the A82 towards the Great Glen and Fort Augustus. Before reaching the Ben Nevis Distillery, however, turn off onto the A830 towards Caol, Banavie and Glenfinnan. The road crosses the River Lochy, goes through a roundabout, and after a few hundred metres Banavie railway station appears on the left. Park here and cross the road. You’re right at the locks.
