A view to dream about, cinnamon bagels to indulge in, and hosts with gold medals – the Suainaval Bed & Breakfast on the Isle of Lewis really is a special place to stay.
Television? Not a chance! Who needs one, anyway? Set into the wall opposite the bed is a panoramic window – and no guest wants to stare at a screen after that. Because the view from the Suainaval Bed & Breakfast looks straight out over the bay of Uig on the Isle of Lewis. At low tide a huge stretch of white sandy beach spreads out here, turning into a turquoise mirror at high tide. Behind it rises a mountain, majestic and often crowned with wisps of cloud: Suaineabhal.
The Suainaval Bed & Breakfast lies in the small settlement of Crabhlastadh – or Crowlista, in its English spelling. Right at the western tip of the Isle of Lewis, a bay has formed with a sandy beach spread out along it, “Tràigh Uige”. The guesthouse sits on the rise between bay and sea, its front facing the beach.
Although not entirely central, the Bed & Breakfast makes a good base for several excursions, especially along the west coast of Lewis.
Though you don’t even need to leave the immediate area, since there’s plenty to experience right on the doorstep. Active guests can climb Suaineabhal, simply walk along the beach, or paddle a canoe across it at high tide. Anyone interested in island life should visit the Uig museum. A little further on is the only whisky distillery in the Outer Hebrides, called Abhainn Dearg, where you can of course join a tour. Around the beach you’ll also find large wooden statues of the Lewis Chessmen. And if you glance up now and then, you’re often lucky enough to spot a golden eagle or a white-tailed eagle.
The nearby Valtos valley also invites you for walks, and a little further beyond it lies a peninsula with the famous beach of Tràigh na Beirigh, surrounded by machair, where with a bit of luck you might hear or spot rare birds too.
Boat trips also set off from Loch Miabhaig, going as far as the islands of St Kilda. So there’s plenty to do around Kirsty and Tony’s guesthouse.
When you return to the Suainaval B&B in the evening, you can unwind in the small whirlpool bath in the bathroom. A touch of luxury right in the middle of the wilderness. And when Kirsty’s legendary cinnamon bagels are served the next morning, you’ll feel ready for fresh adventures once again.
Tips: The eagles near Uig
There are several eagles around Uig beach. We were lucky enough to spot four of them within two days. One was a white-tailed eagle that flew right over our heads. They’re easy to identify: if a bird as big as a barn door flies over you with white wingtip feathers, it was almost certainly a white-tailed eagle. The others were golden eagles, though they were circling some way off and settled on a nearby hill. Still, seeing these creatures ranks among the most impressive things I’ve ever experienced. So always keep an eye on the sky out there.
Good to know: Kirsty and Tony Wade – hosts with a gold medal
Kirsty and Tony Wade both have sporting careers behind them. While an Olympic medal never quite materialised, Kirsty shone repeatedly in the 800m during the 1980s and 1990s and is still regarded as Britain’s second-fastest woman ever over that distance. She won gold twice at the Commonwealth Games. Her husband Tony coached her for a time too. Even today, you can tell just by looking at the two of them that they’re still very much athletes at heart.
Personal note: No sunset
The first time we visited Lewis together, we went in May. Since Lewis lies so far north and it was already heading towards the summer solstice, it practically never got dark at all. On the one hand, this meant we could stay out very late and enjoy the view through the window for hours. But it does make sleeping difficult. Kirsty and Tony had naturally thought of that too, though: thick Harris Tweed curtains keep the midnight sun firmly shut out.
Getting there:
With sat nav: “HS2 9JF” will get you to the right place.
Without sat nav: From Stornoway, first take the A859 towards Tarbert and follow it for a while, until a sign appears pointing towards Gearraidh na h’Abhaine and Uig. Turn right here onto the A858 and follow it to Gearraidh na h’Abhaine, then turn left towards Uig onto the B8011, signposted “Bernearaigh agus Uig”. Follow this road for quite some way, passing through the Valtos valley. At the end of the valley a road branches off to the right, marked by a bus stop, signposted “Aird Uig” and “Cradhlastadh”. Follow this road, pass the houses that appear on the right, and at the next junction turn left towards Cradhlastadh. The large bay of Uig soon comes into view, and in the small village take the first turning by the red postbox uphill to the right, all the way to the B&B.
