Shetland Islands: What you need to know before you go

What to expect in Shetland

In short: a beautiful archipelago with cliffs and sandy beaches that exudes a Scottish-Nordic charm. Good food, abundant nature and ancient history and stories.

Shetland is Scotland’s northernmost archipelago. It lies so far north that the capital, Lerwick, is geographically closer to Bergen than to Edinburgh. The people of Shetland also feel a connection to Norway, as the islands were long part of the Kingdom of Norway.

When you’re there, you’ll see and feel this connection too. The place names sound Nordic, knitted jumpers are produced here instead of kilts, and the New Year is celebrated by burning a Viking ship at ‘Up Helly Aa’.

Shetland consists of around 100 individual islands (and even more if you count the skerries), but only 16 of them are permanently inhabited. The three largest are called Mainland, Yell and Unst. They are each connected by a short ferry crossing.

The sea shapes the landscape of these narrow isles. To the east lies the North Sea, to the west the wild Atlantic. The sea constantly erodes the land. And so high cliffs and deep bays with sandy beaches have formed. A paradise for nature lovers and walkers.

What stands out: the interior of Mainland is more reminiscent of the Highlands. There, hills rise up, covered in heathland and peat. The highest mountain reaches a height of 449 metres.

Sights: What to see in Shetland

If you’re inspired by wild nature with seabirds in summer and the Northern Lights in winter, then Shetland is the place for you. At Sumburgh Head in the south, animals nest in the cliffs, and with a bit of luck you might even spot orcas passing by.

Shetland also takes you on a journey through a fascinating history. The many structures from the Stone, Bronze and Iron Ages are astonishing. Examples include the Broch of Mousa, Clickimin and Jarlshof. Added to these are longhouses and ships from the Viking era and castles from the late Middle Ages.

On the Mainland, there are two places well worth a stroll: the capital, Lerwick, and Scalloway. Here you’ll find old houses and harbour facilities, forts and castles, shops and pubs. As well as museums.

Best time to visit Shetland

May to July is a very good time to visit Shetland. This is when rainfall is low and the days are long. Birds also breed on the cliffs – you can get a good view of the wonderful puffins with their colourful beaks at this time.

Of course, the other months have their own charm too. In winter, for example, the Northern Lights can often be seen in Shetland.

There are two ways to get to Shetland.

Firstly, you can take the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. The operator Northlink takes around twelve hours overnight for the route.

Alternatively, there are Logan Air scheduled flights from various locations to Sumburgh in the south of the archipelago, with a stopover in Kirkwall on Orkney.

My tip for accommodation

One hotel stood out on my trip.

Busta House Hotel

These ancient walls date back to the 18th century and have even served as the backdrop for the TV series “Murder on Shetland”. There is a large restaurant area in the basement. Here, traditional fare is served to a high standard. Locals love to hold their celebrations here. The rooms are clean and stylishly furnished.

Busta House is situated in the west of Mainland, near the village of Brae. From here, you can set off on day trips by car to Eshaness, Scalloway, Lerwick, Hamnavoe and also to the islands in the north.