Kirkcudbright lies in the southwest on the Solway Firth. With its romantic facades, it’s one of Scotland’s most beautiful towns. Even the stars reveal themselves here.
Kirkcudbright at a glance:
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Kirkcudbright was once the place to be for young artists from Glasgow. The reason is still clear to see today. The streets are lined with beautiful houses ranging from medieval times right up to the 19th century, their facades in a colourful array of hues. Vine-clad entrances open mysteriously onto hidden backyards. Plenty of subject matter for artists, in other words.
Even today, this artistic flair still drifts through the town, and its residents are proud of it. They confidently announce Kirkcudbright as the “Artists’ Town” on street signs. Numerous galleries display work, some of it by the local artists’ collective.
Yet Kirkcudbright is by no means a pretentious town – you don’t need any art expertise to enjoy it. A short stroll is enough to feel its atmosphere.
Sights in Kirkcudbright
MacLellan’s Castle
Sir Thomas MacLellan of Bombie was the Provost of Kirkcudbright. Wanting a residence fitting for this important office, he had the castle that still bears his name built by 1582. It’s notable because its architecture marks the transition between a defensive stronghold and a grand residence. There are certainly still a few defensive features, but the manor house character clearly dominates. The interior reveals some interesting quirks, such as a listening post the lord used to eavesdrop on his guests.
Opening hours:
Apr-Sep: Mon-Thu 9:30am-5:30pm
last entry 5:00pm
Oct-Mar: closed
Please note: Renovation work is currently underway, so the interior of the castle may be closed – please check the website. The grounds and shop remain accessible.
Admission: £3.80, children free
Address: MacLellan’s Castle, Kirkcudbright, DG6 4JD
Web: https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/maclellan-s-castle/
Kirkcudbright Tolbooth
Kirkcudbright Tolbooth dates from 1629. It served all at once as a meeting place and town council office, a courthouse and a prison. The most famous inmate held in its cells: a certain Captain John Paul. After being released, he emigrated to America, where he took the name John Paul Jones. As a captain in the American navy, he paid his former homeland back during the Revolutionary War. He’s regarded today as the father of the American navy. Incidentally, the Tolbooth also served as a film set for the horror classic “The Wicker Man”.
The building itself is a listed monument. The top floor tells the story of the Tolbooth through many interesting original details, while the first floor serves as a gallery with various exhibitions.
Opening hours:
Mon-Sat 10:00am-4:00pm, Sun 1:00pm-4:00pm
Admission: free
Address: Tolbooth Arts Centre, High St, Kirkcudbright DG6 4JL
Web: https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/maclellan-s-castle/
Broughton House & Garden
From the front, Broughton House is a Georgian townhouse that fits seamlessly among Kirkcudbright’s facades. But there’s more to it than that. This is where Scottish painter Edward Atkinson Hornel lived for over thirty years. Hornel was one of the Glasgow Boys, around 1900. His style was shaped by the influences of his travels, including to Japan – which is why a Japanese garden lies behind the house. The house also holds a library of around 15,000 books, most of them relating to the Dumfries & Galloway region, including many works by Robert Burns. Naturally, visitors can also admire Hornel’s own works here, along with the old Edwardian house complete with its furnishings and studio.
Opening hours:
Mar-Oct, Thu-Mon, 10:00am-4:00pm
Nov-Feb, closed
Admission: adults £8, family (one adult) £12, family (two adults) £17.50
Address: 12 High St, Kirkcudbright DG6 4JX
Web: https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/broughton-house
Dark Space Planetarium
What a fitting location: the town’s former school now houses a place of science. The Dark Space Planetarium features a small interactive exhibition on the theme of space. But the real attraction, and what justifies the admission price, is the dome on which the planetarium film is shown – a truly impressive show.
Less fitting for a former school: the building is also home to the Dark Art Distillery. It distils Sky Garden Gin – and that can leave you seeing stars rather quickly.
Opening hours:
Sat 10:00am-4:00pm, Sun 2:00pm-4:00pm, Mon-Fri closed
Admission: adults £15, children under 12 £8, concessions £12, family from £35
Address: The Johnston, St Mary Street, Kirkcudbright, DG6 4EG
Web: https://www.darkspaceplanetarium.org/
The Stewartry Museum
The museum, housed in the former town hall, displays exhibits from the Dumfries & Galloway region, covering both the natural world and the life of its people through the ages.
Opening hours:
currently closed for renovation, expected to reopen from June 2023
Admission: free
Address: St Mary Street, Kirkcudbright, DG6 4EG
Web: https://www.dgculture.co.uk/venue/the-stewartry-museum-kirkcudbright/
The Harbour
The River Dee flows into the Solway Firth at Kirkcudbright – an ideal spot for a harbour, used mainly by fishermen. The quaysides sit right against the old town centre, and a look around, along with a short stroll here, is well worth it.
Food and Drink in Kirkcudbright
Station House Café & Cookery School
Fancy learning to cook rather than just being served? That’s exactly what you can do at the Station House Cookery School. Chef Nick Morris lets onlookers in on the secrets of preparing rice at his counter and shows how to make a proper curry. Just be sure to book the course in advance.
Selkirk Arms
Delicious food and drink in a pleasant atmosphere await at the Selkirk Arms Hotel & Restaurant. And of course, you can also spend the night in one of the rooms.
History
The name is confusing at first – how is anyone supposed to pronounce it? The answer: “kir-KOO-bree”. The name originally comes from Gaelic, and is still today rendered “Cille Chuithbeirt” – meaning “the church of Cuthbert”.
Cuthbert was a Scottish saint who lived at the monastery on Lindisfarne during the 7th century, serving there for a time as prior. When the Vikings later attacked Lindisfarne, the monks exhumed Cuthbert’s remains and added the head of the beheaded Oswald alongside them. The relics were brought to Kirkcudbright and stored there before being transported on to England. The town’s coat of arms depicts this very scene: Cuthbert with Oswald’s head under his arm, standing on the deck of a ship.
In the 13th century, John de Balliol received ownership rights over the town as Lord of Galloway. He was the rival of Robert the Bruce, and at his castle in Kirkcudbright (which no longer exists today) he even received the English King Edward I.
Kirkcudbright became a Royal Burgh in 1455, which brought with it extensive trading rights. There was once a monastery here, on whose walls MacLellan’s Castle was later built.
It’s certainly worth noting, too, that on the Solway Firth southeast of the town lies a site once used for training in preparation for the Allied invasion of Normandy.
And of course, the connection to the Glasgow Boys must also be mentioned. The Glasgow Boys were a group of artists in Scotland’s largest city who came together from around 1880 onward. They explored Impressionism, blended it with Celtic design, and also drew on influences from Japan.
Kirkcudbright became a base for the Glasgow Boys outside of Glasgow. Some, such as Edward Atkinson Hornel, stayed on in the town, cementing its reputation as the “Artists’ Town”.
