An impressive round tower stands in the centre of Kirkwall on Orkney. It’s the Moosie Toor, part of the old Bishop’s Palace. The palace’s history stretches back to the days when the Norwegians still ruled over Scotland’s western isles.
At first glance, the Bishop’s Palace is less impressive than Earl’s Palace right next door. Only the tower, the “Moosie Toor”, commands any real awe. Otherwise, all you see is a rectangular building.
Did you know: a history of decline
The Bishop’s Palace in Kirkwall was built as early as the mid-twelfth century by Bishop William the Old – though at that stage only the rectangular hall existed. The most notable thing to happen to the palace in the years that followed was that the Norwegian king Haakon IV died here in 1263. He had retreated here after losing control of Scotland’s Hebridean islands in battle (giving rise to the island kingdom under the MacDonalds – for more on that, the article on Finlaggan is well worth a read).
After that, not much is known about the Bishop’s Palace, other than that it slowly fell into decline.
It wasn’t until around 1540 that Bishop Robert Reid took the building in hand again, renovating it and adding the great round tower, the Moosie Toor. The palace later passed into the hands of the greedy Patrick Stewart (well worth reading about at Earl’s Palace). Once the Stewarts’ rule was broken, the building fell into decline once more.
What can be seen today – the Moosie Toor and a small section of the building – doesn’t reflect the palace’s original scale.
Tips: Kirkwall has plenty to offer
Best visited in one go along with Earl’s Palace and St Magnus Cathedral. That way you’ll have ticked off the historical must-sees.
Getting there:
Coming from Stromness (ferry), simply follow the signs to Kirkwall by car, staying on the A965 throughout.
My tip: park at the harbour in Kirkwall at the start of Albert Street and walk along it (a few minutes’ stroll past the shops). Pass St Magnus Cathedral, then turn left behind it into Palace Road. At the corner with “Watergate” you’ll already be able to see the Moosie Toor.
