The Dukes of Sutherland once came and went here. Today, guests from all over the world can enjoy the ambience of the Navidale House Hotel.
It was already windy and wet when we arrived here on our last trip – unusual for the fair-weather side of eastern Scotland – and by the time we pulled into the hotel car park, all we wanted was a warm room. The hotel’s facade facing the car park matched the mood: a slightly weathered grey-white that gave no hint of what lay inside. Only the round windows on the ground floor suggested that the Navidale House Hotel had a few lovely surprises in store.
Everything changed the moment we stepped inside: finely crafted furniture in dark wood everywhere, embroidered tapestries, heavy leather armchairs, little lampshaded lamps … the visitor is instantly transported back to the Victorian era, before 1900. It takes a moment to process the shock of stepping straight into an antique.
A cosy fire crackled in the bar’s fireplace, instantly making us forget the bad weather outside. A sip of whisky from the well-stocked bar chased away the last of the cold while we waited for dinner. Even while hotel owner Larry was busy with the food, we weren’t alone. The little West Highland terrier Archie stayed with us on one of the leather armchairs, radiating sleepy cosiness.
Navidale House Hotel is located in the small village of Helmsdale, roughly halfway between Inverness and the ferries to Orkney. Not far away you’ll find Scotland’s fairytale castle, Dunrobin Castle. Navidale House is, in effect, an offshoot of that castle – it was once a hunting lodge for the Dukes of Sutherland, who tracked game here in the surrounding woods.
A great deal here has stood the test of time – even if the colours have faded a little here and there. But nothing feels grubby or ill-considered. Our room was well appointed, with a sea view, though the sea looked rather bleak that particular day.
As old as Navidale House Hotel is, its owners Florence and Larry don’t skimp on modern touches where they make sense – whether that’s free Wi-Fi (though it doesn’t quite reach every corner of the hotel) or a well-run kitchen. We had dinner in the dining room, a large room painted blue, filled with all manner of furniture and antiques that could easily distract from the meal – some might find the clutter a bit much, but not us; we felt right at home among all the little antique pieces. We were the only guests, and although that made the large room feel a touch empty at first, the excellent food quickly made up for it.
After a nightcap at the bar and a pleasant night’s sleep, a hearty breakfast awaited us before we continued on our way north. Our only regret was not being able to explore the large garden in better weather. Navidale House Hotel, its owners, and the little dog gave us a warmly hospitable stay all the same.
Know: The Dukes of Sutherland
Although the name Sutherland comes from Old Norse and means “southern land”, the Dukes of Sutherland were by no means a family that had lived there since that era. In fact, behind the noble title “Duke of Sutherland” stands the Leveson-Gower family from Shropshire, a county in the English Midlands on the border with Wales.
The Sutherlands didn’t exactly cover themselves in glory during the era of the Highland Clearances, when they forcibly evicted thousands of residents.
Tip: A paradise for anglers
The Helmsdale River is renowned for its abundance of salmon. Navidale House Hotel offers a room where fishing rods can be stored, and also helps keep your catch fresh for onward transport.
Besides that, you can also spot birds, deer and dolphins in the surrounding area.
Personal note: Photo quality
We felt it would be a bit inappropriate to walk through the rooms with our big camera, so we took many of the photos with our phone camera instead. Please excuse the sometimes poor quality as a result.
Getting there:
With a sat nav: enter “KW8 6JS”, which will take you almost right up to the hotel. Signposts will guide you the rest of the way.
Without a sat nav: Navidale House Hotel sits directly on the A9, which runs along the east coast of the Highlands. From Inverness, the drive takes a good hour and a half. Once you’ve passed through Helmsdale, you’ll come to a roundabout – drive straight through it. Just after that, a small turn-off to the right leads to the hotel car park.
Coming from the north – that is, from Thurso or Wick – it’s about another 20 minutes and 20 kilometres after the A9 and A99 meet, until you see the “Welcome to Helmsdale” sign and the hotel’s sign pointing left to the turn-off.
