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Benbecula’s central location within the island chain brings a few advantages for its roughly 1,300 residents: the hospital “Ospadal Uibhist agus Bharraigh” for the Uists and Barra is located here. Benbecula also has its own airport. Loganair flies from here to Glasgow, to Inverness and to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. Benbecula is connected to the other two islands by causeways, so no ferry is needed.

The main road running through the whole of the Uists also crosses the island. As a result, tourists often pass through Benbecula quickly and only see a landscape of small lochs. Or nowadays the new whisky distillery, which draws visitors with its black lighthouse – in 2023 construction was still underway.

But there is another road on Benbecula that runs along the west coast. The route takes little extra time and can give visitors more of a sense of the island’s character and its villages. Turning onto the west coast road, you soon reach the main settlement of Balivanich in the north. In Gaelic it is called “Baile aʼ Mhanaich”, meaning “place of the monk” – a reference to its past as the site of a monastery for men. There are certainly more scenic spots than Balivanich, but it is where Benbecula’s key infrastructure is located – the hospital and the airport, a post office, a Bank of Scotland and a larger supermarket, the latter two each with a cash machine.

A little further along the west coast road lies Baile nan Cailleach, “place of the nun”. The English name Nunton also points to a former convent for women here. Benbecula has had Christian chapels since as early as the sixth century. Today, the North Uist Distillery has set up in a historic building here.

At the Borve Guest House it’s worth looking inland. The inconspicuous ruin behind the accommodation recalls Amie MacRuari. In the 14th century, she was the first wife of John of Islay, Lord of the Isles and head of Clan Donald. However, John sought a political marriage with the royal House of Stewart, so he had the marriage annulled. Amie withdrew to her own lands, part of which was Benbecula. Here she renovated Teampall na Trianaid and built Borve Castle. She also had a son named Ranald, from whom the powerful Clanranald descended, who ruled over Benbecula, South Uist and parts of Scotland’s west coast for centuries. 

Continuing along the road, you reach Benbecula’s large sandy beach (see the image at the very top of this page). Heading south from the village of Liniclate, past the wind turbine, visitors reach a coastline that forms a magnificent curve. In the background rise the mountains of South Uist.

Benbecula is Flora MacDonald’s home

From 1725, Baile nan Cailleach or Nunton was the seat of the Clanranald chief and thus an important centre of the Uists – both politically and culturally. Here a young lady was raised who would later cause quite a stir: Flora MacDonald. Romantic Highland legends surround her, Bonnie Prince Charlie and his escape after the defeat at Culloden. In any case, her family’s house stood in Baile a’ Mhanaich, and it is quite possible that Flora was born there. What is certain is that she grew up there and received an upbringing described as excellent, preparing her to be a lady fit for court.

Getting to Benbecula

By ferry, Benbecula can only be reached via the Lochboisdale ferry port on South Uist or via Lochmaddy on North Uist.

By plane it’s quick, as Logan Air flies directly to Balivanich on Benbecula.

Accommodation on Booking.com

A list of accommodation on Benbecula is available on Booking.com. (Link and map widget are advertisements)