Eilean Donan Castle – The Highlander Castle

Highlander, James Bond and even Bollywood – Eilean Donan Castle has been a film location for many box-office hits. But this castle in Scotland’s wild west has plenty more stories to tell.

Eilean Donan Castle sits enthroned on a small island that’s completely surrounded by the sea at high tide. The only way onto the island is via a long, beautiful stone bridge. It’s this bridge, along with the brooding stonework behind it, that has made Eilean Donan famous, as it has repeatedly served as a film location – whether for “Highlander” or other blockbusters such as James Bond’s “The World Is Not Enough”.

Eilean Donan is unquestionably a first-rate Scottish tourist attraction, but one that’s genuinely worth visiting – not least because the guided tours are staged with real flair. Dressed in kilts, with a Scottish lilt and plenty of passion, the guides tell the story of the castle and lead you through the lavish rooms and the secret chamber in the great hall. Thoroughly gripping stuff!

Location: Eilean Donan Castle guards three sea lochs

The setting is both picturesque and strategic. Eilean Donan sits right at the meeting point of three sea lochs. From the Isle of Skye in the west comes Loch Alsh, which then bends south-east and becomes Loch Duich. Loch Duich reaches deep inland, all the way to Shiel Bridge. And above the castle runs the narrow Loch Long.

Anyone wanting to sail these lochs by ship to reach the interior first had to pass Eilean Donan Castle. That’s exactly what made the castle so valuable.

Did you know: how to pronounce “Eilean Donan”, and the castle’s history

First things first: it’s pronounced roughly “EL-en DON-en” – you can hear the exact pronunciation here. Translated, the Gaelic name means “Donan’s Island”. It was believed that Saint Donnán of Eigg lived on the little island for a time, before being burned to death by a Pictish queen in 617 – though no evidence for this has ever been found.

The castle looks ancient and imposing. But in truth, what we see today isn’t all that old: the building was only completed in 1932, after 20 years of construction. In this form, Eilean Donan Castle hasn’t even celebrated its hundredth birthday yet.

The original castle on this site (with the first buildings dating back to the 13th century) was destroyed by English frigates attacking the Spanish soldiers stationed there. The Spanish had come to support the Jacobites in their fight against the English.

Film location: films shot at Eilean Donan Castle

Of course, there’s the one film everyone thinks of: Highlander, starring Christopher Lambert, made Eilean Donan and its bridge world-famous back in 1986. The scene itself is actually very short: Clan MacLeod rides out to war across the stone bridge, with the castle walls rising up behind them. Yet it turned out to be one of the film’s defining scenes, since afterwards, suddenly, huge numbers of people wanted to see this castle with its extraordinary bridge for themselves.

Eilean Donan received a visit from a famous secret agent in 1999. In the James Bond film “The World Is Not Enough”, Pierce Brosnan’s 007 finds himself in Scotland too – and where better than Eilean Donan Castle to house MI6’s headquarters?

And then there was an exotic visit from Bollywood. In the film “Kuch Kuch Hota Hai”, starring superstar Shah Rukh Khan, Eilean Donan suddenly appears as the backdrop for one of those typical Indian cinema song sequences – albeit briefly, and in a wild mix with other top Scottish attractions.

Other films that were partly shot here include “Bonnie Prince Charlie” with David Niven, “The Master of Ballantrae” with Errol Flynn, and “Loch Ness”.

Tips: photos, a day trip, and camping

Photo tip: if you drive past Eilean Donan heading towards Skye, there’s a turn-off towards Dornie right after it. Take it, then turn right again just before the Dornie Hotel, which brings you onto a small road that eventually opens up a wonderful view of the castle on the right – take your first shot here. Second shot: back on the A87 towards Skye, cross the bridge just after the castle. Beyond it, on the left, there’s a small car park with a boat jetty. From there you can photograph Eilean Donan from the side.

Eilean Donan Castle fits perfectly into a day-trip driving loop along with the otter haven, the two brochs at Glenelg, and the Five Sisters of Kintail.

Personal note: a tourist magnet

I love the Highlander film, so I had to go there, and I did – back in the mid-1990s. But you’re never the only visitor at this castle. Which makes it hard to capture the atmosphere when there are so many other people around. On top of that, the castle has always found a way to hide from my camera – sometimes behind dark clouds, and in May 2013 it was even wrapped in scaffolding.

Getting there:

By sat nav: “IV40 8DX” will take you to Dornie, where Eilean Donan Castle stands.

Without sat nav: Simply follow the A87, whether coming from Skye or heading towards it, until the castle appears. You really can’t miss it.